There are different screens for LCI and pre LCI. This can offer massive issues. See APIX1 and APIX2. It is best to get everything from the same car and any premium associated with it. 2018+ got a touch screen. It was launched when iDrive 6 went live. Getting this screen and updating to the latest iDrive will likely make it work with older hardware. Wireless CarPlay is possible with old iDrive units. 2018 also got digital dashes. At $1,800, it may be worthwhile to get a car with this option since finding a manual is already on the list. LED headlights also came standard. Big cash return...if you can hold off on retrofitting (you should IIHS didn't rate them amazing, but owners say just re-angle them. Nor were the 2020 models). 2018 legally came with backup camera standard too.
Need ATM unit it must be paired to the NBT EVO unit. This is the GPS module. This could also potentially help in the event the car is stolen.
F30 retrofit and video guide with part links
This is the big thread where people are doing infinite retrofits: Link
Entire DIY by the guys who originally did it:
Notes you can only do 8.8" screen on E46: Link
cost breakdown someone did it for $600
breakthrough **the code and π system below can sniff and translate any signal easily. This is massive.**
people use this cable to put something in the trunk, probably the gps unit which is separate? (unverified) 
"If that's not important then the E6x Logic 7 amp works with the NBT (Adrian said as long as it's updated to the latest firmware, I haven't checked to see if it works on older firmware), or from an Fxx car I'd get the high end audio amp. I've heard Logic 7 (Harman Kardon) in an Fxx car, and am convinced the amp is a lot weaker than the E6x Logic 7 amp, probably because they want people to upgrade to the B&O or Bowers and Wilkins sound systems…”
users separate glass from displays unsure of how protection is added afterward.
 NBT is given commands through this pie module. This is a massive breakthrough as emulators should no longer be required. Inputs of steering wheel sniffed, and then dumped. Cluster issues could be solved similarly
coder chimes in and states everything is here and will be open source
 the dude states his busses already have a web interface UI and can show and allow modification of DSC intervention, speed, rpm and more
pics and explanation of wiring harness Sean should really see this
 NBT being put in the trunk? Interesting, so only the screen lives up front
difference between two translators ** Please download PDF’s inside**
fixing GPS settings also appears car systems translator is worse
code confirmed to run the NBT at least, could have issues with NBT EVO, the two units seem picky
Post 2548: pictures I do not have at the moment. hardware I am using 1.car systems au ibus extended retrofit Adapter. This did not come with a plug and play harness. Purchased it through their support email. 2.16 foot extension harness for an *****/dynavin etc head unit. It was cheaper than buying several different rolls of wire and making one myself. They generally use it to bring the connections in the trunk with factory NAV to the radio at the front. But I utilized it backwards. Got it on eBay. Hunt around, don’t buy the first one you see. 3. Male 18 pin connector from an aftermarket radio instal kit so I did not need to chop the harness at the front (Amazon, eBay, local Automotive electronics store) 4. 40 pin female quad lock connector. 1 to plug in the radio, and another so I can make a t-harness for easy plug and play. Again Amazon, eBay, local auto Electronics store. 5. 40 pin male quad lock connector. This one is used for the plug and play T-harness I made. Again Amazon, eBay, local auto Electronic store. 6. Because I was having so many issues with the NAV, I ended up with a HW 07,21, 31 and an evo headunit. After switching Adapters from bimmer retrofit to Car systems, all my NAV issues are now gone. I ended up selling the other 2 units and kept the evo for my other car. All purchased on eBay and prices ranged on what I could find. 7. Touch I-drive controller and control unit. Purchased on eBay. It is accepting the physical input, but does not register in the unit. Still under testing. 8. 16 foot extension cable for CID display cable. Bough off eBay 9. Got a 10” CID first not realizing that it would not fit. I scowered through e39 forums as that was where the most info was. Ended up with a 8.8” non touch screen. The touch screen is a plan for the future. The bezel is also not completed, as mentioned many issues with fitment. 10. USB ports, the main one for aux/USB audio and The secondary one for profiles and NAV map updates. I managed to find cars in the scrapper and spent some time digging out the cables that I needed without cutting them. The cables are not the same and have different configurations internally. So be careful there. 11. OEM NAV bracket holder and trunk liner in trunk. Sourced through eBay. This way I was able to mount the NAV unit in driving direction 12. I was experimenting with a few different NAV antennas. Not 100% on what antenna is really the best. I used a cheap amazon one, e90 shark finn after bisecting it, F car one and I ended up using an OEM e46 antenna under the parcel shelf where they are fitted from factory. 13. OEM NAV bracket relocation for the climate control. Picked up off eBay, don’t really need it, but I wanted it proper. 14. BT antenna and fakra connector. Got them from the same car at the scrapper while I was extracting the USB cables
i might be missing something. But this is off the top of my head.
for mounting the screen, went to the scrapper and picked up a factory radio Pocket. Cut the bezel as much as I needed to make the screen fit. Used steel strips, bent and drilled accordingly to get it all matched up. By doing this I was able to utilize the factory mounting points on the dash opening.
I-drive controller, touch control unit, USB/AUX port is in the centre console. Everything is still in testing phases and is not permanently secured. But at this time with some minor glitches, the system is up and running